The hidden coves of the Costa Brava

It is not easy to “hide” anywhere on the Costa Brava, at least in high season, but there are certainly places on the Girona coast that are a little less frequented than Illa Roja, Santa Cristina or Calella de Palafrugell, despite the indisputable beauty of these more popular enclaves.

Because the best resource to discover hidden coves is time: take it easy and investigate until you find that little piece of paradise just for you and your loved ones. We propose this route from Tossa de Mar to Portbou: almost 200 kilometers of coastline where you will surely find solitary corners in addition to these seven venerable (and more or less secret) coves and beaches.

Futadera Cove

Cala Futadera – Depositphotos

We begin our route passing through Tossa de Mar and approaching Cala Futadera, one of those corners where you can enjoy an unforgettable day without fighting for the square meter to place the towel. Protected by a cliff and surrounded by nature, it is a picture that perfectly explains why this coast is called “wild”.

Of course, you will have to make a considerable effort to get here, which explains why, despite its beauty, it is not yet a crowded place. Another thing is the boats that have an easier time getting here by sea.

Cala Canyers

Cala Canyers - Depositphotos
Cala Canyers – Depositphotos

Between Palamós and Calella de Palafrugell we stop to discover three of the best coves in the area, starting in Canyers. If you like walking, we recommend that you do the route from Cala Castell, taking the path that passes near the Iberian settlement of Castell which is located on a beautiful promontory that juts out into the sea: the indigestion They discovered the beauty of the Costa Brava a little earlier than us…

It is a small cove measuring just over 20 metres long by eight metres wide, offering an endearing image with its fishermen’s houses, although a little further on you will also find chalets and swimming pools. But this is the Costa Brava, for the good and the not so good.

Estreta Cove

Cala Estreta - Wikiloc
Cala Estreta – Wikiloc

And since we are here and we have warmed up our engines from Cala Castell, why don’t we continue walking a little further to one of the most beautiful corners of Cap Roig?: This is Cala Estreta with its iconic crescent shape generated by a large reef.

At one end there is a fishermen’s hut that has been documented since the 16th century, although its current structure is much more modern, having been restored by the Palamós Town Council, which reports that it is possible to request its use for a day.

Crit Cove

Crit Cove - Depositphotos
Cala del Crit – Depositphotos

And since there are no two without three, we do not leave Cap Roig yet (although already entering the municipality of Mont-ras) because we still have to take a bath in Cala del Crit. And in addition to its beauty, it is a legendary cove: they say that its name comes from the cry of the youngest daughter of a local resident when she was kidnapped after a raid by Saracen pirates that ravaged this coast for centuries.

Although access to this cove is not easy either, its 150 metres of gravel and coarse sand will delight fans of hidden coves. In addition, there are also some old fishermen’s huts here that complete a wonderful picture.

Player’s Cove

We jump to the north of the Costa Brava to enter another iconic cape of the Costa Brava: the Cape Creus which forms the first maritime-terrestrial natural park in Catalonia, including two integral natural reserves, that of the municipality of Cadaqués and that of Cap Norfeu in Roses. And what does this mean? If you want this space to remain so “wild”, you should not stray from the authorised routes.

Where we can go for a while is to Cala Jugadora, one of the emblems of this area due to its extraordinary landscape: here the most lush nature of the south gives way to aridity and exposed stone, a treasure for fans of geology… and wild baths in the Mediterranean.

Taballera Cove

Cala Taballera - Depositphotos
Cala Taballera – Depositphotos

We propose another one to you route to get there by land (if you don’t have a friend with a boat that can take you by sea) from the Port of the Selva in about an hour and a half. This cove is one of the most hidden in the whole of the Costa Brava due to its distance from any car park, which is a blessing for those of us who are not afraid of walking a little.

This is an impressive cove located at the bottom of a long stretch of sea that extends inland, which has attracted sailors since time immemorial: conquerors, merchants, pirates… and friends with boats.

Pi Beach

Our route through the hidden coves of the Costa Brava comes to an end in Portboualready very close to the border with France. It is, in fact, the first (or last) accessible beach by land on the Costa Brava. And again we will have to walk a little to get there following the coastal path from the main beach of Portbou located to the south.

Its name comes from the pine trees that once framed a cove that is about 40 metres long and is protected by cliffs and reefs. You can also look for the so-called Cova del Pirata in the area. Did we mention that there have always been a lot of pirates around here?

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