And Morella knows a lot about uniqueness, you only have to stop at the viewpoint on the N-232, south of the town, to see that its medieval profile It seems designed to be the star of a midsummer night’s dream: a resplendent jewel in the heart of Els Ports de Castellón.
Morella, a medieval fantasy in the heart of Castellón
“Morella is not a place for any man of the world, but for a king.” They say that when James I entered triumphantly into Morella in 1232 and left that phrase for posterity, highlighting that that enclave needed a special defense as it was a crossroads between the Mediterranean and the Ebro Valley.
And as we continue along the road towards Morella after passing the viewpoint we can confirm that, indeed, this town was set up as a true impregnable fortress. And the best way to enter “like a king” (even if we are men of the world) in Morella is through the door that opens under the Towers of San Miguelnortheast of the town, where the Tourist Office is also located.
And if you thought that Morella was another medieval town with a castle and little else, you are wrong: next to the Towers of San Miguel is the Dinosaur Time Museum where you can enjoy the figure of the iguanodon, among other pieces and paleontological remains found in the area: it is not a very large museum, but it satisfies the curiosity of dinosaur fans.
The Castle of Morella
Going up Cuesta Trinquete we arrive at Carrer Castillo where the entrance to the fortress that marked the history of Morella is located. It is a large construction that has been growing and strengthening since its creation in the Muslim era, presumably on previous constructions. To protect its inhabitants, it was located at the top of La Mola de Morellathe rock that marks the physiognomy of the town.
Its structure is divided into three levels, the third being located in the center, at the highest part, where we find the most protected area: here the officers’ pavilion and the parade ground were located.
In the lower area of the castle, to the south, are the remains of the Convent of Sant Francesc which was built at the end of the 13th century with Gothic features. In the Chapter House there is a work known as the Dance of Death dating from the 15th century, one of the rare representations of this theme preserved in Spain. However, this place is currently closed for renovations as the convent is intended to be the base of a National Tourist Parador.
What is not closed for works are the impressive walls that surround the castle: they are a kilometer and a half long and add up to 16 towers highlighting the Torre de Pardala to the southwest, as well as the already mentioned Torres de San Miguel.
Going down towards the town, behind the convent, you will find one of the most bucolic corners of Morella, the garden of poetsa small space surrounded by vegetation that pays tribute to the great poets who frequented this place: a plaque for each of them reminds us of their connection to Morella.
Following the street of the Virgen de Vallivana we arrive at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiorebuilt between the second half of the 13th century and the first half of the 14th century. The impressive Puerta de los Apóstoles, with its clearly Gothic structure, stands out in the complex.
It’s time to stroll through the medieval town of Morella, where the Blasco de Alagón Streetone of the town’s emblems for its porches that have housed the market since medieval times. The old Jewish quarter with its classic labyrinthine structure is also located in this area.
Following Segura Barreda Street towards the east, you reach the Town Hall, next to which is the prison building that functioned as such from medieval times until the 1960s, preserving remains of the old dungeons.
The Sexenni Festival of Morella
We still have to visit the other street emblem of Morella along with Blasco de Alagón: the Sant Joan hillIf you prefer to go down, go to the church square. In the opposite direction, the entrance to the street is next to the Puerta de San Mateo, the southern entrance to the town’s walled enclosure.
But we cannot leave Morella without taking advantage of the fact that this year there is Sexenniumthe town’s festival par excellence, which, as its name indicates, is celebrated every six years. since 1672 when the residents of Morella promised to pay homage to the Virgin of Vallivana for the eradication of a plague.
This is a novena that celebrates its 55th edition in 2024 between August 17 and 27It is said that the preparations for the festival take a year of work, especially the creation of the curly paper tapestries that turn the town into a sort of open-air museum.
The party starts with The Rogation which is transferred from the Virgin of Vallivana hermitage 20 kilometres to the south-east of the village. The solemn entrance of the image of the Virgin into the village is followed by nine days of festivities sponsored by the different guilds that also organise the altarpieces, daily processions that include unusual dances that liven up the streets. And see you in six years!
