Join us on this route along the coast of the municipality of Palafrugell, in the heart of Lower Empordàenjoying unforgettable coves, fishing ports and natural landscapes.
Calella de Palafrugell, the Mediterranean of Serrat
You already know what the legend says, that Serrat composed his ode to the Mediterranean from the Batlle hotel in Calella de Palafrugell. So you will find few places in Catalonia that sum up the essence of the Mediterranean better than this little piece of coastal paradise.
But before passing under les Voltes in Port Bo, we start our route through this environment a little further south, in Castlein the municipality of Palamósfollowing the Stage 8 of the GR 92 in the opposite direction, the Mediterranean Trail that connects Andalusia with Catalonia.
After enjoying Cala Estreta once, one of the most iconic “hidden” coves on the Costa Brava, passing by Cala del Crit in the municipality of Mont-raswe walked around the interior for a while to get to know the Cap Roig Gardensone of the treasures of Palafrugell: 17 hectares with 800 botanical species surrounding a fairy-tale castle.
The historic center of Calella: Les Voltes and Port Bo
It is in the Cap Roig Gardens where section two of the route begins. Parapet walkwhich runs through a large part of the municipality of Palafrugell, which includes the urban centres of Llafranch, Tamariu and Calella itself, as well as the centre of the municipality, inland, where a large part of its population is concentrated.
This section brings us closer to the historic centre of Calella, which began to take shape in the 17th century when the first fishermen They settled here, spending their time among nets, lures and rods, keeping an eye on the horizon in case the pirates were up to their tricks.
Two and a half centuries later, other invaders, less aggressive but just as enthusiastic, arrived in the area: tourists. But, unlike other enclaves on the Costa Brava, the urban physiognomy of Calella has been able to resist the onslaught of mass tourism, as we can see in The Voltesthe icon of the town that was immortalized by Josep Pla: “The sea seen through an archway… Is there anything more prodigiously beautiful?”
The “most important prose writer in contemporary Catalan literature”, who has its foundation In Palafrugell, he reminded us that the best way to enjoy this “prodigiously beautiful” town is from the sea, from a boat, where we can appreciate this motley village with white walls and red roofs, among which the tower of the St. Peter’s Church.
Between Port d’en Calau and Les Voltes, it is located Sa Perolaa former fishermen’s premises that houses the tourist office and interpretation centre for Catalan gastronomy: Calella is also a reference point for the most traditional and maritime Catalan cuisine.
After passing the Port of Malaespinawith one of the different crescent-shaped coves on the Calella coastline, we arrive at the rocky arm that houses the Manel Juanola i Reixach viewpointYes, the creator of the pills, who was also from here: one of the most typical postcards of Calella.
From Canadell beach to the San Sebastián lighthouse
The last stretch of our route along the Palafrugell coast takes us to the north of the municipality, first passing Canadell beach, another symbol of Calella for the basements from the same, old porches that the fishermen of the area used to store their fishing gear as we also saw on the beach of Port Pelegrí, south of Platgeta, before Port Bo.
And further east we come to a flight of stairs leading to the Three Pins where the Hotel La Torrea name that pays homage to the old watchtower of Calella, built at the end of the 16th century to deal with pirate attacks.
The Camino de Ronda continues from The Three Pins passing by Punta d’Blanc and the viewpoint of Llafrancto this town that is part of the municipality of Palafrugell like Calella. Its beach and its marina are another must of the Costa Brava, as is also the Monumental Complex of San Sebastián de la Guarda.
It is not a bad idea to visit this place to remember that this Costa Brava was already here long before we turned it into the Costa Brava: more than 2,600 years ago, a settlement was developed in this enclave. Iberian settlement where we also find a 15th century watchtower, the 18th century hermitage and inn and the 19th century lighthouse.
Since 2017 you will find the visitor center of the San Sebastian Mountainwhere you will have one of the best views of the entire Costa Brava: a last look at the beauty of the Palafrugell coastline.
And if you want more, the Camino de Ronda continues until Tamariustill within the municipality of Palafrugell, to the north of where you will find the Xelida Water Coveanother symbol of the Costa Brava. The wild beauty of this coast never ceases!
