Harry Styles posed at the 2020 Brit Awards in a Gucci suit and a gorgeous pearl pendant. Timothée Chalamet presented his latest film with the detail of a pearl and rhinestone choker on the neck and a set of brilliant rings. The new style icons not only blur the boundaries of the male and female wardrobe, but add pieces of jewelry that, until now, were relegated to women.
But jewelry worn by a man is not a new phenomenon. In ancient Egypt, pharaohs, clergy, nobles and everyone who could afford it adorned their bodies with exuberant jewels. It was a symbol of his social status, as it was only available to a minority. It also remained so, centuries later, for the British royalty and the French monarchy. Versailles, the epicenter of luxury and ostentation, witnessed every night a recital of hedonism in the form of priceless costumes and jewelry worn by both sexes equally.
The end of absolutism brought the social classes closer and jewelry, which was no longer exclusive to the upper classes, began to be simplified, until it became only a thing for women. They, who lived to please and please the male gaze, adorned their bodies with accessories and accessories to keep up. They, on the contrary, did not need any artifice.
Now the rules have changed. The historic jewelry brand Tiffany & Co. presented its neutral gender collection, under the name of Tiffany Lock, made up of 18-carat gold bracelets aimed at both sexes. So did the Gucci house, delving into the neutral gender under the concept of Link to Love.
In the latest Messika Paris high jewelery show, the model Alto Mason paraded full of exuberant jewels with pharaonic airs. Bulgari launched the new Serpenti references, without diamonds, a line that the house assures is triumphant among men. jewelry was also seen genderless in Dior’s men’s collection for spring-summer 2023. A fashion that is taking hold and that the jewelry and watch house Wempe translates into two bracelets in 18-carat white and yellow gold.