Recently, the led lights (For Light-emitting diodes) have carved out a place for themselves on the large market of aesthetic medicine techniques and anti-aging care. Leaving the offices of dermatologists and beauty institutes, they are integrated into home appliances, which we discover on the accounts of stars or influencers. These are lamps to be placed on the face, hand-held devices to treat targeted areas, or even masks. They often represent a significant investment, but what can we expect from them?
What is LED therapy? how it works ?
The light waves sent back by the LEDs act on the quality of the skin, and in particular on the cell regeneration. This process is called photobiomodulation. “The different colors, and therefore the different wavelengths, penetrate more or less deeply into the skin,” explains Dr. Isabelle Rousseau, dermatologist. It is mainly the red and infrared which are used in anti-aging, i.e. wavelengths around 630 nm, 660 or 800 nm. “In the dermis, these light waves stimulate the fibroblasts and the collagen synthesis “, continues the specialist.
Effectiveness: have they proven themselves?
There are many scientific works on this subject, but researchers and doctors do not all agree on their interpretation. For Inserm researcher Serge Mordon, most of this work would not be solid enough to prove the anti-aging benefits of all LED devices on the skin. “Often, there is no control group to compare the results obtained, points out the specialist. Most studies on the use of LEDs are of poor quality from a methodological point of view. »
Dozens of studies have demonstrated the effects of LEDs on the skin, says Dr. Rousseau.
Among the benefits observed: a reduction in wrinkles and an improvement in the firmness and elasticity of the skin.
LED lamps: what aesthetic effects to expect?
Aging of the skin, complexion, sagging skin… What effects to expect? The results of clinical tests carried out on certain devices first show a benefit on the general appearance of the skin, brighter and smoother. In some studies, wrinkles are also somewhat faded. The results are modest, which ultimately seems more credible.
You also have to be patient. ” It’s necessary several weeks of treatment », emphasizes Dr. Rousseau: 8 to 10 weeks for use ranging from two sessions per week to once per day.
Are there any contraindications and dangers?
There is no contraindications or side effects, because the light waves do not burn or aggravate redness, irritation and skin problems. On the contrary, photomodulation by Led often calms the inflammations.
Which device and which color to choose?
The devices where the red light is in contact with the skin are the most efficient, because the power of the light energy is not diluted. It is also better to check that the device has been the subject of efficiency tests, presented on brand websites, not to be confused with subjective self-assessments! Finally, prices that are too low – less than €200 – should encourage caution.
Our selection of red light devices for the face
The cheapest: Silk’n FaceTite – LEDs and radiofrequency
This little hand device should be applied over the entire face. It combines red and infrared LEDs with radio frequency.
Why we chose it: A study showed a visible reduction of wrinkles crow’s feet and lip commissure in 96% of participants, after one month of treatment with two sessions per week.
Its price: 219 € on the brand’s website.
The most original: CurrentBody Skin Mask Leds – a mask that covers the face
This phototherapy mask in flexible silicone, covered with red LEDs, is placed on the entire face.
Why we chose it: Its design is based on one of the rare clinical studies published with a placebo group.
Its price: 329 € on the brand’s website.
The most studied: Lightinderm Lift program – Leds, serum and massage
This hand-held device is equipped with a massaging ball, in addition to red LEDs. A niacinamide-based anti-aging serum is associated with the treatment.
Why we chose it: Lightinderm was developed by a start-up hosted at Cochin Hospital in Paris, which brings together dermatologists and researchers. Several experimental studies (on cells and human skin explants) have validated its concept. Finally, a clinical study conducted on 33 women showed an increase in the firmness and density of the skin, associated with a decrease in crow’s feet and nasolabial fold wrinkles, after 28 days of sessions. daily. This year, he is the winner of the Prix Santé Magazine Beauté Santé.
Its price: €369.90 for the device and 4 capsules of serum for one month, on the brand’s website.
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