Kylie Jenner attends the Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023 Collection presented in Paris, Monday, Jan. 23, 2023. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)
Paris
The firm Schiaparelli opened the Haute Couture catwalk on Monday with a collection full of trompe l’oeil and some spectacular fake taxidermy figures with wolf or lion heads, worn among others by top names Naomi Campbell and Irina Shayk.
Campbell donned a spectacular fur coat with a wolf’s head on one shoulder, while Shayk wore a velvet strapless gown with a lion at the neckline. The last dress in this line was one with a white tiger print and a reproduction of the animal’s head on the front.
The figures were built by hand from foam and resin, mainly, and promise to become a very viral silhouette after the businesswoman and influencer Kylie Jenner, invited to the parade, came with the lion-headed dress, even ahead of the runway.
“Elsa Schiaparelli has always surprised with her work and, over the years, people have learned to come to Schiaparelli in a spirit of curiosity. You don’t know what you’re going to find”, highlighted the brand’s creative director, the American Daniel Roseberry, in a press release offered to attendees.
This season, the designer has focused less on the brand’s spectacular costume jewelery and has focused on surrealism in the garments and the fine barrier that separates reality from fiction.
Is it really a lion’s head? No. The same goes for the decorations that make up a skirt, which look like sequins and are pieces of wood. Velvet changes color depending on the light in which it is viewed, as if it were the wings of a butterfly.
One corset is actually a wooden plank and another has been created in patinated copper, a job that took four months.
Innovation and technique are at the heart of the brand, especially since Roseberry took over the reins of the quintessential surrealist brand.
In the parade, he also highlighted the silhouette chosen by the creator, which strips the rectilinear and advocates a narrow waist and a very marked and rounded hip, as in a rigid jacket suit that looks more like an evening dress.
An anorak becomes a sculpted, rigid dress, with an impressive stand-up collar.
For Roseberry, elegance is not incompatible with excess and a white jacket with black 3/4 pants can be a Haute Couture proposal if the textures are ostentatious enough or if there are details that reveal the mastery of its seamstresses: like the black-skinned snake that becomes the spectacular lapel on that white jacket.
Also striking was a sequined dress embroidered with two shells covering the chest or a bolero-type jacket, very bullfighter, with silk wool embroidery and mohair pompoms.
The show, which took place at the spectacular entrance of the Petit Palais in Paris, welcomed many celebrities such as actresses Diane Kruger, Rossy de Palma, Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, ex-model Inès de la Fressange and singer Doja Cat, who attended completely covered in bright red (head and face included).
Styling excesses are more than allowed during Haute Couture.
This story was originally published on January 24, 2023 10:31 a.m.
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