The dream of any beginning designer is to be able to walk on a fashion catwalk. 080 Barcelona Fashion was born 31 editions ago precisely to promote emerging talent and, although it later opened up to the consolidated brands of Catalonia, it has always been sensitive to new designers. In this edition, the debutants are Laretta, 404 Studio, Compte Spain, Paolo Leduc, Outsiders Division, Nathalie Chandler, Free Form Style and Bielo-Oscarleón, the first collection that unites the styles of the knitwear firm with the designer. And although they have already walked the runway at 080, The Artelier, Victor von Schwarz, The Label Edition or Habey Club also fall into the emerging category.
Lara Serrano was born in Amposta 25 years ago. She was studying economics in Barcelona when, attracted by fashion, she attended a 080 show: “It was from Brain & Beast and I loved it, and although I finished my degree, I decided to study fashion,” explains the founder of Laretta. Her first collection has been a contrast of colors, textures and volumes inspired by life and death.
Along with the new values, on the second day of the 080, established names such as Lebor Gabala, Txell Miras and Menchen Tomás have shown their collections
“I asked family and friends what color represents time to them. And they told me so many that I have tried to create a colorful collection in which all people can be identified”, says Alba Ayza, from Badalona, the designer of The Artelier.
The Belgian Nathalie Chandler has lived in Barcelona since 2008. She has a long career as a stylist and designer for other firms, but yesterday she debuted at 080 with her own, which she recently created, and which Marta Torné has worn on the program Euphoria from TV3: “ Break Codes which is the title of the collection, is aimed at an urban, chic, elegant and somewhat rocker woman”, says Chandler.
404 Studio paraded for the first time yesterday at 080 after having presented collections in Los Angeles, London and Madrid, where it won the talent award in the 2021 edition. The collection that it has presented in Barcelona, I have no tears left , is a tribute to the quinqui cinema that Eloy de la Iglesia shot in the seventies, about cars, knives and drugs, and “it is also an ode to my great-grandmother”, says a nervous Anais Vauxcelles, the designer, after the show. She started working with crochet, which is why the collection includes handmade dresses and woven flower details.
Víctor Manuel Fernández, or Victor von Schwarz, created the firm ten years ago. He walked the runway at Ego in Madrid and in two digital editions of 080. In his first physical show on the Catalan catwalk, he presented the collection The American dream : “I have been inspired by all those Americans who sought to succeed in Hollywood and ended up as waiters or policemen –explains the designer from Sabadell–. In short, it is a reflection on happiness based on fame and money, because being anonymous in a small apartment can also be very happy”.
But along with the new brands, the second day of 080 Barcelona Fashion also included catwalks by renowned names in fashion such as Lebor Gabala, Txell Miras and Menchen Tomás.
Lebor Gabala presented his collection From day to night, because “they are garments designed to be mixed and used both day and night. It depends on the identity of each person,” explains Maite Muñoz, the firm’s designer. On the catwalk there were many light coats, shorts-panties and fadas in checks, herringbones, bright colors and gradients. And silk, velvet, wool, corduroy and of course knitwear.
The coats have also been the main protagonists of the Txell Miras fashion show to present Distòpia. His collection is inspired by the works of Joseph Beuys, “he covered himself with a blanket as a claim to the Indian people,” he comments, “and I put the coat directly on bare skin to warn about climate change,” he adds. Miras coats are blue, brown, maroon, yellow, white and black.
The second day was closed by the elegance and glamor of Menchen Tomas who has turned the catwalk into a circus. “The circus has magic, and there are also trials, tests and errors, which are necessary to learn”, says Olga Menchen.
In the collection presented there is a lot of nude color, especially in the corsetry garments, which the designer takes outside. Also tulle, glitter and sequin embroidery simulating the different circus characters: clowns, trapeze artists, jugglers… But if something caught the attention in the parade it was the wonderful headdresses that the models wore on their heads in the shape of horses, ferris wheels , merry-go-rounds, bowling, kettles or swings. A fantasy display created by Fernando Romero.